I always see alot of questions similar in nature to "Will this setup work with my bike?", "What parts should I buy?", "How much will this increase my power?" from newbies entering the sport, so I have decided to make a list of what pocket bike performance parts are best for your bike.

This list is for people on a low budget and also applies to those that have a bit of money to spend aswell. It will be set out in the format "Budget Mods", "Average Mods" and "Serious Tuner". Be advised that all CAG engines are different and performance increases vary on each bike. This guide should help you spend your money more wisely on the right modifications to get your bike going at it's full potential with the money you have to spend.

The pocket bike modifications listed are all available in Australia, but may need some looking around for. The prices listed next to each part is the general recommended retail price, please do not use this as a buying guide as prices will vary from different suppliers. Make sure to shop around for better prices, and also check with the supplier that these parts will fit your style of pocket bike.

Budget Mods:

Timing Key - Increases your engines timing by 10 degrees, cheap and VERY effective part, But please note this increases performance on some engines, but can also decrease performance in others, it depends what your timing is set at in the factory. (RRP $20)

Fibreglass Reeds - Replace your stock metal reed with a high performance Fibreglass one. Fibreglass reeds allow more and faster fuel into the carb, this resulting in a faster burning of fuel, which increases low, mid and top end power. (RRP $20-$30)

Performance Air Filter and V Stack - If your bike came with a black air cleaner instead of an air filter, its loosing potential power, by adding a high performance air filter and vstack your allowing more and faster air into your engine, which will increase performance and engine life. (RRP $30-$40)

Hi Flow Fuel Filter - This is not a performance mod but it is one of the most important things that should be considered when buying modifications, If your fuel line does not have a fuel filter, there is a very good chance that dirt or foreign objects have got inside your fuel and are now blocking your carb. By installing this cheap modification it protects your engine from harm by dirt, plastic, etc. It is a must for every bike . (RRP $7-$15)

HP Clutch Springs - All CAGS come with 3 shoe clutches, the major let down with these clucthes are the springs. A good set of HP clutch springs will make your acceleration alot better over stock and coming out of coners etc, you will have alot more power. A good cheap investment. (RRP $15-$25)

These mods are a very good starting point to modifying, these parts can be fitted if you have general engine knoweldge or instructions. The flywheel, clutch and carb must all be removed to install these mods, if in doubt you can take your bike to a pocket bike repair shop and they would gladly install them for a cheap fee.

Average Mods:

Fatboy Exhaust and Tank - This exhaust system is an awesome upgrade over the stock exhaust, many winning pocket bike racers around the world use this exhaust and swear by it. It's a very cheap upgrade and will really open up your engine, the Fatboy Exhaust is that big, it comes with a smaller fuel tank so the pipe can fit. (RRP $90-$160)

High Performance Carb - The stock CAG carb is only 12.88mm by upgrading to a larger carb etc. 14/14 or WT-603 which are the most popular choices in carbs when it comes to racing you increase your engines performance all round by allowing more fuel and air to get burnt and this will increase your low, mid and top end power. (RRP $90-$160)

Heavy Duty 2 Shoe Clutch - A 2 shoe clutch is better for light people, once it gets going its awesome alot better than a 3 shoe clutch with springs, the only down side to this modification is you must adjust the springs perfect for when the clutch engages. (RRP $40-$70)

High Performance Piston Rings - HP Piston Rings Offer more compression and are a good cheap investment, will give a small increase in power. (RRP $10-$20)

Lightened Piston - A lightened piston is alot better than the stock piston and is alot better quality, will give a small increase in power. (RRP $30-$50)

Ported Cylinder - Getting a cylinder ported to your engine is one of the most important mods that can be done, a cylinder with boost ports, larger exhaust ports and the correct squish set, will give an insane power increase, Very good for the money. (RRP $80-$90)

These mods are for the more experienced racer that can handle alot more power over stock, these parts will be best installed by a shop rather than risk doing it your self. You will be amazed at the power increase.

Serious Tuner:

2 Peice High Compression Headkit - A headkit consists of a cylinder, piston, extra cooling plate, a high quality spark plug and some even with a changeable compression dome, This is where your engine gets insane power, by increasing it to a 49cc not a 40cc like most CAG's. A head kit tuned to the rest of the engine correctly is the best value for money product. (RRP $100-$400)

Full Circle Stroker Crank - A full circle stroker is best suited to an engine wit a headkit. Installing a full circle stroker crank (FCSC) will make your bike a 52cc but to get this going perfect the crank must be balanced to your piston. This is done by experienced pocket bike shops, once you install the FCSC you will never want to ride a bike with a half circle crank again. (RRP $110-$130)

4 Petal Reed Cage - Allows alot more and faster fuel into your engine with 2 dual reed sections allowing for 4 reeds, this gives you improved fuel flow and power throughout low, mid and top end. You will not be dissapointed: (RRP $120-$200)

Zocchi CAG Race Pipe - Hand made italian race exhaust, cannot go wrong here will run absolutley awesome with a headkit and a good carb. Awesome power increase from low, mid and top end. (RRP $160-$200)

The real art to serious performance upgardes is getting your engine made to run perfect with the modifications. This is achieved with the correct porting and tuning. If the above modifications are ran with all of the average mods and a timing key, you will have an insaneley powerful machine. They will easily add 20 km/h to your top end with stock gearing. Also be advised while adding these mods a final gear change will be needed to get the most out of the modifications. If your engine is tuned and ported correctly you will be keeping up easily with stock watercooled pocket bikes, if not beating them. With all of these mods, they are not made just to be fitted onto your bike. The best thing you could do is to take it to your local pocket bike repair or performance shop and get them to fit everything correctly and tune the engine to the modifications, then it's just a matter of holding on :)

David Di Cristo
Owner of the website and Pocket Bike Forum community at Pocket-Bike-Racing.com.au

The best-selling car in America returns with an original engine design and a blue-collar transmission from the motor city. Ford's F-150 pickup comes in regular, extended, and crew-cab styles. All cabs have four doors. The standard minicab mimics the SuperCab extended minicab with average rear-hinged "partly doors." The SuperCrew crew minicab has four straight doors. Extended's and crews have a bring up work surface seat for 6-passenger capacity. Crews have a 5.5-ft-long consignment single bed. Other F-150s use beds of 5.5, 6.5, and 8 ft, depending on options. All come in flat-side Styleside outward appearance; the 6.5-ft single bed in addition comes as a flare-fender Flareside.

The 4.2-liter V6 engine has 202 horse power. Two V8 engines are available: a 4.6-liter with 231 hp and a 5.4 with 300. A 5-speed transmission now comes as a standard option.

Taking turns on redesigning its bread-and-butter pickups, Ford rolled out a brand-new version of the F-150 pickup in 2004 and then focused its thought on a makeover of its big-bubba Super Duty in 2005. This year, Ford is sleeping from its labors, with little changes of memorandum: The F-150 procession is toughened up with a Harley-Davidson trim pack up highlighted by a monotone black outdoor; 22-inch polished, sham aluminum wheels; and bags of eagle logos. Later in the representation year. And there are some chrome selection packages and other negligible doodads to expend change on.

We were disenchanted that Ford chose not to fetch out a original version of its defunct Lightning, which was rumored to revisit in 2006 with a supercharged V-8 cranking out 500 horsepower and 500 pound-feet of torque. The Ford Lightning has been a huge draw for the company. Even appearing in popular movies like the fast and furious to boost it's popularity.

Car Breeds is an online car and truck publication. See More about Ford Ford Trucks

1. How to choose a repair shop. What you should look for when choosing a repair shop

Ask for a recommendation from friends, family, and anyone else you really trust. Look for a repair shop before you need one so you are not rushed at the last minute to find one.

Use the telephone, shop around by phone to compare prices and Warranty policies on the repair to find your best deal.

Ask to see their current licenses if local and/or state law requires shops to be licensed or registered. Also your state Attorney General office or local consumer protection agency, BBB and Chamber of Commerce may know if there are a record of complaints against a particular shop.

If you have an Extended Warranty Contract and intend to use it present it to the shop to make sure it will be honored before any work is started.

2. How To Find The Right Automotive Technician. And is one automotive technician better than another.

Look for shops that display various certifications of their technicians, like an ASE certification seal. Certification indicates that some or all of the technicians meet a basic standard of knowledge and experience in a specific technical area, if the certification states the tech is a Master certified tech that means the tech has passed tests and meets the standard for all areas of repair.

Also make sure that the certifications are all current as the mechanics have to be re tested every few years to make sure they stay up to date with changing technology, but remember just because the shop is certified does not always guarantee good or honest work. This is where investigating the shop/techs will pay off.

And make sure you ask the shop/mechanic if they have experience working on the make/model of your vehicle as some shops may not have the experience working on your import if the specialize in domestic cars and vise versa.

3. Unlocking the Mystery of Repair Charges

Before arranging to have any work done to your car, ask what the shops pricing policy is. Some shops charge a flat rate for labor on vehicle repair. The rate is based on an independent or manufacturer estimate of the time required to complete a repair. Some shops will charge actual time the tech works on the vehicle. Most shops use the flat rate system and this is usually the best for the customer as there is no wiggle room for the tech to "make time" on a repair.

If you need an expensive repair or a complicated repair or if you question the required repair, consider getting a second opinion. Just think of it as going to a doctor for major surgery and you want to make sure the doctor is right.

Find out if there is a diagnostic charge if you decide to take the vehicle some where else for the repair. Many shops will charge you for diagnosis time if you have repairs done or not, most will deduct it from repair bill if work done at their shop.

Where ever you get the repairs done, make sure you ask for a written estimate and the written estimate should include the following: It should state what is being repaired, the parts and parts cost needed and the labor cost for the repair. Make sure you get a signed copy before you leave the shop.

Also the Repair Order should state that the shop will contact you before they do any extra repair or time that exceeds the original estimate. State law requires this. In most states shops can only charge up to $25.00 over estimate on repair before contacting you. Most honest shops will contact you first before doing adding any excess charges.

Make sure you know about parts that are to be repaired or replaced, parts are classified as:

New-These parts are made to original manufacturer specification either by the vehicle manufacturer or and independent company, such as NAPA etc. Prices will vary from Original Manufacturer original equipment or an after market manufacturer and you should be informed of what is used or decided which you want replace on your vehicle.

Re-manufactured, rebuilt or reconditioned.-All three of these terms generally mean the same thing. It means the respective part has been restored to original working condition. Most of these parts will have standard warranty on them from 30 days to a lifetime depending or the part and reman. company. Usealy this includes just the part and not labor to replace it.

Salvage-These are used parts taken from another vehicle without any alteration from vehicles in a salvage yard. These parts carry a 30 day guarantee depending on the part and salvage yard. Most electrical parts from a salvage yard is bought as is.

After the repair is completed make sure you get the completed repair order showing work done and parts replaced. It should list the repair , parts used, cost of parts and cost of labor. Make sure you check the odometer from when you brought the vehicle in and when you pick it up, there should not be any difference in the miles unless a road test was needed after the repair to make sure everything was working properly. Ask to see all the replaced parts, you are entitled to take them with you if you want with the exception of a part that was replaced and needs to have the old part returned as a core. The shop is charged a core charge for the old part until it is returned to Parts store, if you want to take this part you can if you pay the core charge. Sometimes these are very high depending on the part as they are sent back to a rebuilder to be reconditioned, large parts (transmissions, engines etc.) and electrical parts are most expensive.

I will be adding additional articles on this and other Automotive subjects, so if you found this interesting and informative go to www.jtcbiz.com and click on the Article button bottom left to read more CarFacts and information. While you are at www.jtcbiz.com check out the other information there.

Jack Cooper is the owner of www.jtcbiz.com

Jack Cooper
Occupation: Auto Appraiser/Inspector
Website: http://www.jtcbiz.com

Biography: I have over 40 years experience in the Automotive field, from ASE Master Tech to owner of my own repair shop and have been doing Automotive Appraisals and extended warranty/pre-purchase inspections for the past 12 years.

I have been working on building and just about anything connected with cars all my life. I have been a Drag Racer (early years) drove stock cars (asphalt and dirt) built Hot Rods and restored classic cars, so have been around just about any type of vehicle you can imagine.

My hobby is NASCAR and building web-sites. My current web-site http://www.jtcbiz.com is a site I started several years ago as an information site for Cars and expanded into trucks, 4X4's, ATV's, Motorcycles and NASCAR. The site started out to be a business site, hence the jtcbiz name, but turned into a site on vehicles so don't be alarmed with site name as it had a lot of exposure so I left the name.
Thanks
Jack Cooper
http://www.jtcbiz.com

This frame slider kit has been designed to offer unsurpassed protection to your 2004-5 Yamaha FZ1000 in the unfortunate event of a lowside or tip over. Motovation frame sliders are designed and manufactured by a company that only makes frame sliders. Each and every model is tested for drop and slide protection. They are tough but not brittle and can also absorb a huge impact. Sportsriders around the world who have tested various models of our products on the track have all given their thumbs up after experiencing first hand, the benefits of Motovation Frame Sliders.

Please read all instructions before beginning work! These frame sliders are designed to fit specific engine mounts of your 2004-5 Yamaha FZ1. It is highly recommended that you refer to your service manual before performing this installation.

Instructions:

1. Remove the left-side engine mount bolt as seen in the left picture.
2. Install the longer slider using the new bolt and washer with one washer under the bolt head.
3. Tighten the engine mount bolt to the supplied locknut - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
4. Remove the right side engine mount bolt. (same place as the other side).
5. Install the other slider using the new bolt, nut and washers (supplied in this kit) with one washer under the bolt head.
6. Tighten the engine mount bolt to the factory specifications - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Included in the FZ1000 2005 Motovation frame slider kit:
(2) 10 x 140mm 1.5 bolts
(2) Stainless steel lock nuts
(2) Aluminum bushings (pressed into plastic)
(2) Plastic Frame Sliders (left-longer)
(4) Flat Washers

Motovation Accessories is a distributor of quality Yamaha frame sliders and accessories. http://www.motovationusa.com Go to: http://www.motovationusa.com/2003FZ1.html for installation pictures.

I've heard the question asked many times before, 'Do I really need a crossover?' Without wasting any time I quickly answer, 'Yes you do'. Whether it's a passive crossover or an active crossover, your car audio system will never sound good without a crossover. I want to make myself very clear here, so before you get confused let's talk about what a car audio crossover is and why you need one.

A crossover is a filtering device which limits the frequencies that reach a speaker. It splits a music signal into separate frequency ranges and sends them to speakers that are designed to best reproduce each frequency range. For instance, only high frequencies would be sent to your tweeters, midrange to your mid range speakers, and lows to your subwoofer.

The passive crossover is very common. It's basically a capacitor or coil installed on the speaker leads between amplifier and speaker that stops certain frequencies from reaching a speaker. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

But for your car stereo system to perform better and be efficient, you need an active crossover, also referred to as an electronic crossover. It is installed between your head unit or equalizer and your amplifiers. Your electronic crossover sends the proper frequency ranges to each amplifier. Some people run three separate amps: one for bass, one for mids and the other for highs.

Active crossovers are almost infinitely adjustable. You can vary the crossover points and adjust the level of separate speakers to achieve the best overall sound in your vehicle.

If you're serious about sound you must have a car audio crossover. Otherwise your system will sound terrible. Oh what a mess it will be when your subwoofer and mid-range speakers duplicate many of the same frequencies! How about when your mid-range speaker attempts to put out high notes that your tweeters are supposed to handle. Can you bear such grief? I can't.

And this is just the beginning of your sorrow and pain. Since low frequencies are being sent to your tweeters there will be distortion. As a result of this distortion your tweeters will be destroyed. Loud bass will eventually destroy your mid-range speakers as well. Now you've got to start from scratch and buy a new set of speakers, all because you started on the wrong footing.

Mantius Cazaubon is a successful author and publisher of http://car-stereos-guide.com, a resource for information and tips on buying car stereo and car audio products online.